How Sun Woo used her pop-up tent garments to communicate a lack of belonging
This is A HOT MINUTE WITH, a quick-fire interview series championing all the rising talent catapulting into fashion, art and music’s fickle stratosphere. From pinch-me moments to bad dates and even worse chat-up lines, think of it as an overindulgent conversation – like the ones you have in sticky club toilets at 4.A.M. Except these guests don’t regret the overshare…
Courtesy of @sun_woo_official
NAME SUN WOO CHANG
AGE 29
LOCATION Seoul, South Korea
LIFE MANTRA To be honest at all times, and to think deep, decide fast.
“Sun Woo will make your wardrobe dance!” says Sun Woo Chang, the designer whose eponymous brand has quickly found its fun and joy-bringing role in the fashion world through its lively, bright and experimental designs. The CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS graduate sees creativity as something to play with; a reminder of being young and toying with imagination. “Me and my family lived in a small basement right under a karaoke bar when I was young, it was very noisy and dark,” the designer recalls. “I remember I used to love drawing on the whole wall with crayon and paints. Thankfully, the landlord at that time allowed me to draw as much as I wanted and said ‘you are going to be an artist in the future.’”
And an artist Sun Woo Chang did become, in every sense of the word. Her designs transcend the norm when it comes to fashion. Chang’s pop-up tent inspired collection combines elegant designs with playful concepts, turning dresses into structures reminiscent of helter skelters or stacked CD-R’s. “The idea started with my continuously moving life. I’ve lived in Korea, Canada and the UK. I’ve always thought I never belonged anywhere. One time, when I was in London, I saw a bunch of people moving around, carrying pop-up tents with them. I felt something in common with them,” she explains. In conversation with Check-Out’s Editor-At-Large, ELLA BARDSLEY, we attempt to get a glimpse into the expansive imagination of the 29-year-old emerging designer…
Ella Bardsley: How has your upbringing informed you as a designer?
Sun Woo Chang: My dad is an interior designer, and my mum has always taught me the importance of art and culture. I’ve been influenced a lot by my parents and that naturally led me to experience different fields within the arts. I liked drawing and making things at home rather than going outside and seeing friends. I remember going to a fabric shop when I was in elementary school, hand sewing some clothing, and giving it to my friend for their birthday.
EB: How do you view the relationship between a designer's identity and the clothes they create?
SWC: A designer's outfit or image may be shown in collections as it is, but I think it's more of an attitude. I usually wear relaxed clothes, such as sweatpants and jumpers, which are comfortable and can be messed up when I work, and I believe that's seen in the way I run the brand and my process of making clothes.
EB: What is your earliest creative memory? Did you always want to be a designer?
SWC: I remember I used to love drawing on the walls with crayon and paints - I assume that was the earliest creative memory I have. The landlord said, ‘you are going to be an artist in the future.’ This memory has influenced me a lot, it gives me so much encouragement when I go through uncertain moments. It makes me fearless when doing creative activities. I did not expect to be a fashion designer in the beginning, I just love making and creating. However fashion to me is the most interesting material - it has movement, flexibility when in different shapes of the body. I can also communicate with people when they put on my pieces.
EB: What is the concept behind your pop-up tent designs?
SWC: I’ve lived in Korea, Canada and the UK. I’ve always thought that I never belonged anywhere. One time, when I was in London, I saw a bunch of people moving around carrying pop-up tents with them. I felt like I had something in common with them; I thought, ‘that is the life I’ve dreamed of.’ These portable garments, imbued with the properties of pop-up tents, are inspired by my own lack of a sense of belonging. The functionality, portability and protective nature of pop-up tents are translated into my garments through technical fabrics and wire hardware.
Courtesy of @sun_woo_official
EB: How would you describe your aesthetic? Where do you find inspiration?
SWC: It is sometimes hard to describe my aesthetic - it often changes many times season by season. Ultimately, I would say my basic aesthetic is like the taste and visual of a baguette with whipped cream on top. I enjoy gathering and combining familiar things together to make something unusual. I normally get inspired from people, their characteristics and their thoughts. I rarely look for inspiration to get an idea. I might get it from a dream, strangers or the interview questions like I am doing right now which is really spontaneous and very accidental, I assume.
EB: Talk us through your design process. How do you achieve your unforgettable shapes?
SWC: I usually drape a lot, build up imaginary shapes and structures on the body using cardboards and papers to make it stand. Most of my work cannot start with sketches because it normally doesn’t work once the wire goes in. So I begin with thinking of the overall feeling and mood, and go through many experiments to enable the principle of the pop-up tents. Refinement is one of the important elements for me as well, I like to study how to do the finishing neatly, such as stitch techniques and details.
EB: Where is the boundary between fashion and art? How does this play into your work?
SWC: I don’t separate fashion and art. For me, it’s really blurry. One always influences the other and maybe the only difference is its direction. Art for me is a little more inward, it directs to the artists themselves and fashion in terms of design is outward. I’d think if it was art that had arm holes and an opening at the neckline - it is fashion.
EB: What do you want people to take away from your designs?
SWC: Fun and joy!
EB: If you were a piece of clothing, what would you look like?
SWC: A white t-shirt.
EB: Worst fashion trend you participated in?
SWC: Black mini dress.
EB: Is there anything you regret not doing?
SWC: That I don’t regret things.
EB: What are you most proud of?
SWC: My mental strength and calmness.
EB: What’s your favourite trait in other people?
SWC: Empathy.
EB: Favourite trait in yourself?
SWC: Objectivity.
EB: Biggest Fashion idol?
SWC: DEVON AOKI.
EB: A collection you wish you had created?
SWC: Comme des Garçons 1996 and Undercover 2004, both Spring/Summer collections.
EB: City or country?
SWC: Work for city, country for living.
EB: Bath or shower?
SWC: Shower.
EB: Book or film?
SWC: Both.
EB: The decade you wish you’d lived in?
SWC: 1909-1920s.
EB: First thing you’ll do post lockdown?
SWC: Go on a trip with friends and family.
EB: What constitutes ‘success’ to you as a designer? What have been your career highlights so far?
SWC: Although I am still looking for the meaning of ‘success’ for myself, I guess right now I would be happy enough if I can keep on working with what I want to do as a brand, having the space where I can work with the lovely people I work with.
EB: Finally, what’s next for Sun Woo?
SWC: Sun Woo will make your wardrobe dance!
Introduction written by @ry.gav